From fenfam at sc.rr.com Sun Jul 22 07:55:00 2018 From: fenfam at sc.rr.com (Ben Fenner) Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2018 07:55:00 -0400 Subject: Rear suspension In-Reply-To: References: <20180408005205.E180038000085@mtaout-mcd01.mx.aol.com> <6E63D796-3EB0-4845-BEA2-8E0039442127@e-rak.com> Message-ID: Sorry for the late reply. I second what Tim says below about the long bolt holding the parallel arms to the knuckle. Although, most of us have no luck with penetrating oil and any amount of cheater bar or impact gun. So many of us have had to saw through that bolt. Be prepared to need to do that yourself. The problem is that the bolt is so long, it twists (acting like a spring) instead of transferring the force where you need it. That bolt is the only "gotcha" in the rear suspension. Good luck. Are you aware of the parallel arms with spherical bearings that TurboFX makes? Since you're replacing yours, I thought I'd mention it since a lot of us have done this upgrade in the past 8 years they've been available. However, they do add a bit of noise, so if that's what you're trying to solve, don't bother. They do eliminate all of the binding that the stock suspension has built in. And they provide independent camber adjustment (in addition to retaining the stock toe adjustability) if that's something you're interested in. -Ben Fenner 1994 Turbo SE-R 2000 M-Coupe On 4/8/2018 10:28 PM, Tim Rogers wrote: > ?For the rear suspension, the long bolt that goes through the bottom > of the hub is often the worst to deal with. I would start with that > one as it helps to have everything else tight so that it doesn't move > around as you are trying to break it free. Use lots of Kroil not only > on the nut but on the other sides of the ears it passes through. > > Tim Rogers >