From Qualudia101@aol.com Mon Sep 15 00:17:04 2003 From: Qualudia101@aol.com (Qualudia101@aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 18:17:04 -0500 Subject: AC on Power Increase Message-ID: <1c3.ee7e854.2c9650e7@aol.com> Subj: Re: AC on Power Increase Date: 9/14/2003 To: billc@fred.net, se-r@lists.deskmedia.com Subj: Re: AC on Power Increase Date: 9/14/2003 Bill: thanks for the step by step write up. I was able to identify where this is at. On my 93 the TPS is connected to the Throttle Body next to the firewall as you say,however I have 6 wires coming out Red,Blk,White, Yello,Blu, Grn. The first three end up in one connector that plugs into a corresponding mating connector. The next three wires go to another mating connector. Both connectors are held just above the intake pipe running to the throttle body. Any ideas which one is the one to disconnect? Seems nothing is easy for me. My ride is an automatic if that is why the difference. Frank 93 SE-R > Subj: Re: AC on Power Increase > Date: 9/14/2003 12:47:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time > From: billc@fred.net > To: Qualudia101@aol.com, se-r@lists.deskmedia.com > Sent from the Internet > Qualudia101@aol.com wrote: > >Can anyone tell me how the TPS plug on my 93 comes off so I can > set the idle? > Frank -- > The TPS is attached to the firewall side of the throttle body, > visible from the driver's side fender. From slamtry@yahoo.com Mon Sep 15 06:58:28 2003 From: slamtry@yahoo.com (Slamtry) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 00:58:28 -0500 Subject: Nissan wheel color Message-ID: <20030915055827.59379.qmail@web14204.mail.yahoo.com> I am going to try to repair the kerb damage on the B14 wheels I bought this w/e. Can anyone tell me which paint manufacturer/color I need to use under the clearcoat to match the rest of the wheel? Dan From LionA29@aol.com Mon Sep 15 06:59:51 2003 From: LionA29@aol.com (LionA29@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 00:59:51 -0500 Subject: 93 OEM Foglights Message-ID: Hi LM Has anyone ever replace there OEM foglights with new ones(OEM),how much are they going for at nissan?.Mine is rusted really bad and i want to keep the stock style light.I was thinking of using a higher watt halogen bulb in there too,any input would be appreciated.If anyone has any or know someone i can buy it off please let me know,thank you!! Adrian 93 SE-R 170K.New suspension and brake upgrade. From billc@fred.net Mon Sep 15 14:33:16 2003 From: billc@fred.net (Bill Conner) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 08:33:16 -0500 Subject: AC on Power Increase References: <84.18d6009e.2c964636@aol.com> Message-ID: <3F65BF96.1CC14E6A@fred.net> Qualudia101@aol.com wrote: > On my 93 the TPS is connected to the Throttle Body next to the > firewall as you say,however I have 6 wires coming out ... The FSM reveals that the A/T TPS is different from the M/T TPS. I sent Frank a scan of the FSM picture with my guess as to which connector will put the engine in base timing/idle mode. Anybody know for sure? Also, whoever cleaned up my last message and put it through to the list -- thanks. I hope that this one meets the standards. Bill Conner From grailer@yifan.net Mon Sep 15 14:45:55 2003 From: grailer@yifan.net (?) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 08:45:55 -0500 Subject: 93 OEM Foglights References: Message-ID: <008201c37b8e$bff590e0$d36564c0@chanrahan> wrote: > ...how much are they going for at nissan? Courtesy Nissan has an upgrade with new lenses and better bulbs (PIAA 55w) for $100. Here's the link: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=B13-FOGKIT If you go with even higher wattage bulbs, you'll want to change to a higher amp fuse. Or, you can get just new lenses for about $20 each from Courtesy, Mossy, etc. The bulbs are a standard H3 bulb, and those can be had for under $10 each from your local parts store. Hope this helps! Carson M. Hanrahan '91 Classic w/SR20VE & the usual stuff "It is better to go into a corner slow and come out fast than to go into a corner fast and come out dead" - Stirling Moss From Briancembor@aol.com Mon Sep 15 15:09:19 2003 From: Briancembor@aol.com (Briancembor@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 09:09:19 -0500 Subject: Rallycross.. Message-ID: <690AD258.08F47C99.36B5E0DC@aol.com> Well, did my first rallycross yesterday... let me tell you, that was some the best fun i've had with my clothes on! i have to say, way more fun that an a autox, and i love autoxing! event site was in Resaca, GA which is about 35m S of the Tenn/GA border. it was a *huge* field below a motocross track. the course was very twisty with some slight elevation change and 2 almost 3 very fast straights (as in near redline 2nd gear). i was running in Production Street class (street tires) so i was using my Falken Ziex ZE-512s at 50psi front and 45psi rear. i choose these over my Azenis as they had more tread and a little more *knobby* than the Azenis. we got six runs divided into 2 sessions. i love this car in the dirt! i have done lots of gravle road driving and love getting the rear loose so this was even better as i could push higher speeds. On my 3rd run i knocked the cat conv pretty hard and created about a 1/16th" gap between the front flanges. on my 5th run i lost one of the 2 front bolts altogether and only had about 3 turns left on the nut before i lost the other bolt and rear exhaust section completely! so i retired. dusty and happy. i have to get another bolt at work to today and reattach. this time i using a flex lock and possibly some Loctite. anywho... i HIGHLY recommend rallycrossing if you have it in your area! Brian Cembor 92 SE-R black with a brown dusting... 8STS 8PS From Briancembor@aol.com Mon Sep 15 15:11:51 2003 From: Briancembor@aol.com (Briancembor@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 09:11:51 -0500 Subject: (no subject) Message-ID: <1BABA100.43F76A21.36B5E0DC@aol.com> I have both Ziex and Azenis. there is DEFINITELY a difference in width. i'll post a picture tongiht or tomorrow. also in sidewall stiffness as well. i have the Ziex as my daily duty tires and the Azenis as my autox tire. the Ziex are great all around tire but over grip is compromised with the softer sidewall for ride comfort. this tire, Ziex, is great on the highway and made a decent rally cross tire this weekend (more on that later). back to point though.. the Ziex should have NO problem fitting in that size. if the Azenis fit (which they do) the Ziex will as they run almost a 1/2" narrower than Azenis. Brian From ewraven@hotmail.com Mon Sep 15 17:57:36 2003 From: ewraven@hotmail.com (Joshua Gary) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 11:57:36 -0500 Subject: Nissan wheel color Message-ID: I've noticed on my Molten Silver 02 Spec V that my Nissan touch up paint matches the wheels very closely. I just tested it one of my wheels(curb rash). It isn't perfect but seems to be pretty close. That is of course if your wheels are that painted silver color with the clearcoat. The paint code is KY4 for the Molten Silver. From cowboydren@b15sentra.net Mon Sep 15 23:35:48 2003 From: cowboydren@b15sentra.net (Jon Pennington) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 17:35:48 -0500 Subject: Fabricating exhuasts In-Reply-To: <001701c37aec$b9a6e920$c800000a@computer> References: <001701c37aec$b9a6e920$c800000a@computer> Message-ID: <1743.165.173.42.110.1063669029.squirrel@www.b15sentra.net> Why bother? Just call Miguel at VRS Exhaust (http://www.vrsexhaust.com/) and order a pipe-only kit if you're really stuck on using your own mufflers. Anyway, to proceed with your own plan, just look at the bends you have now. I'd bet that you could "just make one work" with a couple of 45s and 90s, but with some trickery to get through the rear axle section. Also, the Bullet muffler will be quite loud; oval bodies are still a lot quieter (more perforations, more expansion room). Just remember, given the same construction methods, a larger body (resonator and muffler both) will be quieter. I'd start out with a 4*26" Magnaflow XL Power Pack in the center and a 5*8*18" muffler in the tail. But I smoke a lot of crack... -- -=|JP|=- "Stays Fresh Longer!" '01 B15 SE/PP | http://members.cardomain.com/cowboydren/ | < '95 SL2 Auto | cowboydren @ b15sentra . net | From lhlvava@tampabay.rr.com Tue Sep 16 03:52:31 2003 From: lhlvava@tampabay.rr.com (hlava) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 21:52:31 -0500 Subject: YippySkippy Message-ID: <003901c37bfd$90208ae0$1d362041@tampabay.rr.com> Thanks, Peter... yes you did mention the picks, I even went out and bought a set. Unfortunately, they wouldn't reach the blockage... had 4 different kind, too. I must not have gotten the right size set. Anyway, Eric used some scrap wire and a grinder and made a long a thick bent pick. It's funny, I mentioned the pick idea to him... he made his own. I'm normally pretty good about dissecting a problem but on this I really let it get to me. One year of frustration trying to clean the thing out and just wasn't thinking critically... makes me feel real stupid. It's good to have friends on the list, can't wait to meet some of yall, but it's great to have some to tinker with in person. Next up, replace coolant, put on new silicon hoses and clean the throttle(pita) body. Then, replace the bottom oil pan, been on there 13 years, I'm sure there's plenty of oil crud stuck to the bottom of it. Thanks again, Mark From peter@easytree.net Tue Sep 16 13:54:40 2003 From: peter@easytree.net (Peter Serwe) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 07:54:40 -0500 Subject: YippySkippy References: <003901c37bfd$90208ae0$1d362041@tampabay.rr.com> Message-ID: <3F67082A.4FE19469@easytree.net> hlava wrote: > kind, too. I must not have gotten the right size set. IIRC, I used the double 45 degree offset pick, the one where the first 45 goes down, then the second goes off to the side. Of course, to get the pick in the hole on the BPT I had to juggle a flashlight and a cheapo autozone pen mirror. As long as it's got flow, all is good. Making sure your not running rich helps keep it cleaner quite a bit, IMHO. -- Peter Serwe Cheaper, Faster, Better, pick any two. finger peter@easytree.net for public pgp key From peter@easytree.net Tue Sep 16 14:18:52 2003 From: peter@easytree.net (Peter Serwe) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 08:18:52 -0500 Subject: Running rich, tuning. Message-ID: <3F670DDF.C99BEDF9@easytree.net> Interestingly enough, or maybe not as the case may be, I was running rich for the longest time. Even with the stock header intact. I had gone through everything I could think of, changed out my o2 sensor, and still had black sooty stuff coating the inside of my tailpipe. I had noticed while putting on a catback and the short shifter I bought so long ago, that there was a broken ground strap down there. Rather than try to replace that, I figured I would just reground the o2 sensor directly. After poking around on se-r.net once again, I found somewhere (which I can no longer remember) where someone suggested using an oversized ring terminal to reground the o2 sensor, the only problem with those, is that they are hard to find, no autoparts store has one. I ended up taking a piece of copper sheet, commonly used for custom gasket material, and with a pneumatic nibbler, cutting out a fairly rough square with a 'T' on the end of it. Took that, drilled a hole in the middle with a drill press, and cleaned up the outer edges on a grinder. I only had a 5/8" bit handy, so I had to file the hole out to 11/16". I then folded the ends of the 'T' around some 10 or 12 gauge wire, soldered it, and crimped a small ring terminal onto the other end. This all probably took me 35-45 minutes to accomplish, truly a labor of love. I ended up cutting the o2 sensor gasket off, and putting the homemade ring terminal in it's place and tightening it down. Viola! No more running rich. My tailpipe now has a very healthy brownish hue. -- Peter Serwe Cheaper, Faster, Better, pick any two. finger peter@easytree.net for public pgp key From bossman@customsteel.com Tue Sep 16 16:25:43 2003 From: bossman@customsteel.com (P@) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 10:25:43 -0500 Subject: Fabricating exhuasts References: <001701c37aec$b9a6e920$c800000a@computer> Message-ID: <045701c37c66$5aa3d2a0$200c4094@vaio> Yep, ive built two, one for the P11 and one for the P10. If your handy with a welder and have an entire day to kill it can be done. These were both header back and each took about 8 hours to build, plan on doing a lot of test cutting to get the exhaust right. Expecially over the rear axle. Hope you have a decent band saw and something to de-burr the piping that you cut. http://www.magnumforceracing.com/ubend.asp - these guys have some great mandresl bends, and reasonable price too, just dont buy their flanges, they are way thin. IIRC, I used 4 - 180* Ubends from these guys for each, (5 if you want to have a spare in case you mess up) plus a 5' section of straight. Youll might need some 7/16" rod to make hangers with as well. Good Luck, P@ 99' G20 with some mods.... www.customsteel.com From orange@geek.com Wed Sep 17 06:32:35 2003 From: orange@geek.com (John Chia) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 00:32:35 -0500 Subject: Emissions Test / Drive Clean & Methyl Hydrate Message-ID: <20030917042131.GA4077@yosemite.yi.org> Help! I'm having trouble passing emissions up here in Canada with a 95 200SX SE-R. HC is approximately twice the limit (79/150) and NOx is at 800 where the limit is 600. CO is passing & idle is clean. I've replaced so far: - front o2 - cat - rotor/cap/plugs (wires are like 1 year old) - air filter - timing to 13 degrees. The new plugs haven't been tested but I doubt it'll make that big a diff. They're NGKs while what was in there were Bosch plats. According to the Unplug-O2-Sensor-and-run-at-2000-rpm-for-30-seconds test I have an intake leak but all 3 vacuum lines are tight and the rubber isn't cracking. Could this be specific to older se-rs? It also gave me a MIL. I'm pretty sure EGR is fine but I haven't taken a look as it's a PITA to get into that spot. The car was doing really light duty (grocery runs -- i know, I'm going to hell) for a month or two before the test and hasn't been on the highway for a decent run in awhile. Would giving it a 2 hour freeway jog or so help it? Even more, like 4 hours? An ex-mechanic friend of mine suggested I dump some methyl hydrate in with gas which he says will burn the fuel more completely. One page mentions on the net that it's not good to use with fuel injection. He usually works on beaters, so i don't know if I should trust him this time... Sorry for being so long. Any help is appreciated. If there's doubt a long drive will help clean it all up, and if there's even a little bit doubt if methyl hydrate will be safe, I guess I'm digging into EGR. Thanks in advance. John. From cowboydren@b15sentra.net Thu Sep 18 02:24:11 2003 From: cowboydren@b15sentra.net (Jon Pennington) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 20:24:11 -0500 Subject: G20s: OBD-II Question Message-ID: <4004.165.173.42.101.1063851939.squirrel@www.b15sentra.net> Okay; does the '94-96 G20 ECU have a old-style CONSULT port, a standard OBD-II diagnostic connector, or both? -- -=|JP|=- "Stays Fresh Longer!" '01 B15 SE/PP | http://members.cardomain.com/cowboydren/ | < '95 SL2 Auto | cowboydren @ b15sentra . net | From Briancembor@aol.com Thu Sep 18 16:57:29 2003 From: Briancembor@aol.com (Briancembor@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:57:29 -0500 Subject: tire comparison Message-ID: <5639599E.4C5E8630.36B5E0DC@aol.com> with all the talk lately about Falkens and whatnot i took these pictures this past weekend: http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid79/ p53ad31f8b8408140eca264f2ab3d286d/fb0e710b.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid79/ pf6a1c38b0724be6698afdc756990cb0d/fb0e7127.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid79/ p21d30e5904b7a6873df0e83669c7e45d/fb0e7118.jpg the tires are both 195-60-R14 but you can see the differnce in contact patch and so on.. Brian 92 SE-R From mcclanah@u.arizona.edu Thu Sep 18 18:15:02 2003 From: mcclanah@u.arizona.edu (Justin McClanahan) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 12:15:02 -0500 Subject: G20s: OBD-II Question In-Reply-To: <4004.165.173.42.101.1063851939.squirrel@www.b15sentra.net> Message-ID: <002101c37d9b$d8586360$6401a8c0@justin> > Okay; does the '94-96 G20 ECU have a old-style CONSULT port, a standard > OBD-II diagnostic connector, or both? Both, but I don't believe the OBD-II port works by itself (until later model Nissan's). The older style is under the fuse box, under the cover. The OBD-II port is on the passenger side under the glove box, on the lower left corner of the dash area there, right to the right of the HVAC controls, sorta. It's called a Generic scan tool port in the FSM (GST). Hope this helps. Justin McClanahan 95 G20 w/ VVL and no codes or MIL! :-) From cordell@speakeasy.org Thu Sep 18 18:36:46 2003 From: cordell@speakeasy.org (Joy Cordell) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 12:36:46 -0500 Subject: Do classic SE-Rs get chopped? Message-ID: Hi, new to list here, but really enjoying lurking so far. My '93 charcoal SE-R, no enhancements but great condition and 170+k, was stolen here in Seattle five weeks ago, supposedly by teens out for a ride on a Saturday night. Usually the stolen cars here (yeah, a LOT of stolen cars here) show up parked on a side street in a week or two. No such luck with mine. With my car's age and mileage I never expected it to get stolen (Honda's are the theftmobiles in this town!) I'm sure it isn't on a container somewhere, but is there a market in classic SE-R bodies/parts? It was an awesome car. . . I'm a part-time ski instructor, kept four Gislaved studs on it in winter and could drive through anything it didn't bottom out on. Sigh. REALLY missing this car, Joy _______________ SE-R-less in Seattle From orange@geek.com Thu Sep 18 19:31:06 2003 From: orange@geek.com (John Chia) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 13:31:06 -0500 Subject: Emission Tests at 2000 RPM Message-ID: <20030918183052.GA8580@yosemite.yi.org> I went through a bit of an ordeal with emission tests with my 95 SE-R. I could pass everything but the driving test in HC and NOx. It finally passed today on the advice of Dan from London on the se-r-canada list. He suggested that the reason I was failing was because the engine runs in open loop (no O2 feedback, rich mix) while below 2000 RPM. He also theorized that EGR is not doing anything below 2000 RPM. Can anyone confirm that? He was right somewhere because the examiner did the test in 2nd gear at ~2750 RPM and it passed! John. From yesous2@comcast.net Thu Sep 18 21:29:55 2003 From: yesous2@comcast.net (joel & viola) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 15:29:55 -0500 Subject: Do classic SE-Rs get chopped? References: Message-ID: <009301c37e23$9cbddeb0$10772044@homes> Dang man sorry to hear/read this. I hope it shows up intact soon. Joel & Viola Armstrong Walk by Faith not by Sight! From lshadoff@brazosport.cc.tx.us Thu Sep 18 23:42:40 2003 From: lshadoff@brazosport.cc.tx.us (Lewis Shadoff) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:42:40 -0500 Subject: Turbo 200SX Back on the Road Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.2.20030918171735.00bbea60@pop3.brazosport.cc.tx.us> I got the car together enough to get it back on the road. The nitrous plumbing is installed, and the Profec B boost controller is working. I still must: 1 - pressure test the nitrous lines I made an adaptor for AN4 to air compressor quick fitting and will test for leaks at 100# (the max for my compressor). 2 - wire up the solenoid switches. I haven't decided, yet where to mount them. I'm leaning towards the front of the console. I'll wire them so that a light comes on when the system is armed, and set the purge valve so that it can only be activated when the system is armed. 3 - install the nitrous pressure gauge. I have the Teflon Aeroquip line and fittings and will install it in the space below the radio next to the Profec B and turbo timer. I want to get the nitrous system going first, though. 3 - adjust the boost. I ordered an update to the EASE OBD2 Scan software, and as soon as it arrives I'll monitor the MAF voltage with my laptop as I increase the boost to see how high I can go, . See my site, below, for the installations and pictures. There's one problem, though. I can't pass inspection because the "Ready Test" fails for the Catalyst, O2 Sensor, and EGR System. There are no MIL codes stored. I checked with the Nissan dealer, and he said that it may take two weeks of driving around before they are set. In the meantime, I have gotten a ticket for an expired inspection sticker and still may have 10 days of driving around to go. The inspection station has been really good about it and have run the test three times already (at no additional cost). Wish me luck. Lew Lewis Shadoff Lake Jackson, TX '97 200SX SE-R, Level 10 Auto, HotShot turbo http://www.brazosport.edu/~lshadoff/turbo/ From turboser@comcast.net Fri Sep 19 01:32:43 2003 From: turboser@comcast.net (Jon Davis) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 19:32:43 -0500 Subject: G20s: OBD-II Question References: <002101c37d9b$d8586360$6401a8c0@justin> Message-ID: <001401c37e46$b8d0ad80$6401a8c0@fairvw01.pa.comcast.net> Right... I just had my '96 200SX on the OBD2 scanner and the actual OBD2 port doesn't appear to work, I had to use the connector behind the fuse panel with a special Nissan adapter. Jon Davis > > Okay; does the '94-96 G20 ECU have a old-style CONSULT port, a standard > > OBD-II diagnostic connector, or both? > Both, but I don't believe the OBD-II port works by itself (until > later model Nissan's). The older style is under the fuse box, under From Qualudia101@aol.com Fri Sep 19 03:46:29 2003 From: Qualudia101@aol.com (Qualudia101@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 21:46:29 -0500 Subject: tire comparison Message-ID: <84.191f0838.2c9bc801@aol.com> thanks Brian Frank 93SE-R From JBGTLG@aol.com Fri Sep 19 03:52:12 2003 From: JBGTLG@aol.com (JBGTLG@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 21:52:12 -0500 Subject: Need help with ST rear sway bar B14/15 Message-ID: <1e8.fd456b3.2c9bc957@aol.com> I have the bar and hardware but no instructions anybody in stall one that can help me locate the proper holes Thanks Jeremy From geo3@earthlink.net Fri Sep 19 20:49:25 2003 From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 14:49:25 -0500 Subject: Fwd: RE: Friday humor Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030919144742.0357eec0@mail.earthlink.net> >Apparently there isn't an organization like PETA in the UK. Check out the >clip for the Ford sportka. >Go to http://www.the-eviltwin.co.uk >Click on View Highlights, then click Clip 1. >And if you can't take a joke, well... OK, this is really OT, but what the hell. List traffic is light, and on the 944 list there is a tradition of Fridays being open season for any humorous topic. This one is too good not to share. Too bad Nissan isn't doing clever commercials anymore (but glad they got rid of Hirshberg). George Roffe Houston, TX http://www.nissport.com From j_foster@charter.net Sat Sep 20 03:23:13 2003 From: j_foster@charter.net (Josh Foster) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 21:23:13 -0500 Subject: Helmets Message-ID: Hey list, I'm am starting to research helmets for the convention because in the past I have just borrowed one from a friend. But I thought I might as well purchase my own, and I wanted to get some opinions. I understand what the helmet "codes" mean; such as M2000 and SA95 etc. My question is at what level of motorsports do "M" helmets not conform to the rules. I expect every class of racing to be slightly different, but I have used a "M" for auto-x without problems, but what about drivers education events such as at the upcoming convention? I searched my local tracks requirements, but the follow NHRA standards - which I had trouble finding their on-line rule book. My usage to be mainly auto-x and possibly a couple DE's with almost zero chance of wheel-to-wheel racing. I would appreciate some general tips, and any websites with better deals. I've found www.racerwholesale.com and a couple others. Thanks, Josh Foster '92 SE-R http://webpages.charter.net/j_foster/Index.htm From geo3@earthlink.net Sat Sep 20 04:01:05 2003 From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 22:01:05 -0500 Subject: Helmets In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030919215421.027fada0@mail.earthlink.net> Josh Foster wrote: >My question is at what level of motorsports do "M" helmets not conform to >the rules. Typcially, autocross will allow an "M" rating. Driver Education "DE" is a crap shoot. Some allow "M" and some require "SA." FWIW, I believe "M" should be OK for DE, but I don't make the rules. >My usage to be mainly auto-x and possibly a couple DE's with almost zero >chance of wheel-to-wheel racing. You never know. My opportunity came from out of no-where. >I would appreciate some general tips, and any websites with better deals. >I've found www.racerwholesale.com and a couple others. Josh, my wife just bought me a G-Force "Forced Air" helmet and I'm impressed. I checked them out at my last race and I think they are better than the Bell helmets I've been using for most of my racing. My force air helmet is kevlar/fiberglass and cost the same as my Bell Sport II. I highly recommend the G-Force helmets. I think they are better quality than Bell and Simpson and the price great. Personally, I'd suggest buying a SA G-Force helmet. You can get one for about the price of a M Bell or Simpson and if you ever need the SA rating, you have it. If you're *really* not sure, you could always go to the convention early and stop by Racer Wholesale in Atlanta and check them out. Of you could borrow a helmet for the convention and check out my G-Force at the convention. George Roffe Houston, TX http://www.nissport.com From timrogers@charter.net Sat Sep 20 04:53:23 2003 From: timrogers@charter.net (Tim Rogers) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 22:53:23 -0500 Subject: Helmets In-Reply-To: <5.2.0.9.0.20030919215421.027fada0@mail.earthlink.net> Message-ID: Geo wrote: >> If you're *really* not sure, you could always go to the convention early and stop by Racer Wholesale in Atlanta and check them out. << That's a great idea, but unfortunately, Racer Wholesale closed their showroom a few months ago. The showroom generated too few sales to support a salesperson and it suffered from the occasional shoplifting incident. Luckily, I bought my helmet there before the showroom closed. G-Force's list of dealers is at: http://www.gforce.com/dealers/dealers.html Maybe there is one near you... Tim Rogers -93 NX T-top -needs motor work -91 NX - Racecar-to-be -75 Silverado - Rusty Beast -01 Astro - Work Van, Tow Beast From spdracer@mail.utexas.edu Sat Sep 20 12:40:18 2003 From: spdracer@mail.utexas.edu (spdracer@mail.utexas.edu) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 06:40:18 -0500 Subject: Helmets In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1064058129.3f6c3d1194fa3@webmailapp3.cc.utexas.edu> If you have the chance, I highly recommend trying out the helmets to make sure they fit. I know with motorcycle helmets, the different manufacters make their helmets slightly different in shape so depending on your head shape, some will probably fit better than others. Khiem From james_vick@msn.com Sat Sep 20 19:01:47 2003 From: james_vick@msn.com (james vick) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 13:01:47 -0500 Subject: nprobe-data logger Message-ID: Sorry don't post much but we have been workin on this for a while. Check it out at www.300degree.com/electronics/nprobe/ let me know what ya think. Every one be safe k.................james _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From jhassinger@cox.net Sat Sep 20 21:14:57 2003 From: jhassinger@cox.net (Jay Hassinger (Victor Research)) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 15:14:57 -0500 Subject: Test Ignore Message-ID: <20030920201457.KEWP29227.lakemtao04.cox.net@smtp.east.cox.n et> Testing, having trouble with the list. Sorry. From geo3@earthlink.net Sat Sep 20 22:37:06 2003 From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 16:37:06 -0500 Subject: Test Ignore In-Reply-To: <20030920201457.KEWP29227.lakemtao04.cox.net@smtp.east.cox. n et> Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030920163635.02807680@mail.earthlink.net> Jay Hassinger wrote: >Testing, having trouble with the list. Sorry. Nope. List is now moderated. You are no longer moderated however. Welcome back. George Roffe Houston, TX http://www.nissport.com From jhassinger@cox.net Sat Sep 20 22:57:47 2003 From: jhassinger@cox.net (Jay Hassinger) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 16:57:47 -0500 Subject: Hello, An Old Face Returns Message-ID: <003301c37fb2$8efcbc20$911b0944@delldesktop> Hello everyone, just thought I would send a message and say "howdy". I'm back in the SE-R fold. For those who were around when I was on the list, a short run down on my life for the past couple years. Sold the 97 SE-R, bought a house, started fixing up the house, bought a 1990 GSX...well traded for some web development for it anyway, went 12.52@109mph for $700, fixed up the house, sold my web business, fixed up the house, went to work for an aerospace company doing computer stuff, fixed up the house, sold the GSX, got laid off, fixed up the house, went into a partnership to open a speed shop, realized it was not where I wanted to be and/or who I wanted to be partners with, sold my portion of the speed shop, fixed up the house, began proceedings to open my own small car dealership/service center/skunkworks type performance work (Been involved in that business one way or the other all my life.), got my location, got my dealers license in July, fixed up the location and house, grand opening to set for October 15th...STILL FIXING UP THE HOUSE! LOL That's it in a nutshell. I was at the auction couple weeks ago, and saw a purple 1995 200sx SE-R come through with a light dent in the drivers fender and a couple small hail-like dings in the roof and trunk. (Easy dent wizard fix.) Original owner, decent miles, very tight, very strong car (Here we go again!). So I figured I'd been without a project for long enough and still had the fresh memory of driving a T28 SE-R a couple months back...I walked away with it for $1200.00. Everyone bidding on it thought it was "just a Sentra". ;-) I've already laid out my plans which are a 10 second street car/daily driver SE-R. No compromises. (Well maybe an AC delete :-D ) I'm going to push the stock longblock as far as it will go first, then build a nice longblock to compliment the rest of the "stuff". I'm thinking 450-475whp *might* be attainable before I spit a rod out of the block, spin a bearing or crush a ring land. Actually I believe as long as detonation is under control the weak point is going to be keeping the rod bearings from pounding out. I've heard about the dog box upgrade and I'm going to wash the feet of those involved with making it a reality! I've dubbed the little purple car "Barneysaurus." Just a harmless friendly purple car with a scarey 500hp dark side. :-D Anyway, it's really good to be back...look for a hell of a journey to take place in the next 7-8 months as I attempt to push a street driven SE-R where it hasn't been yet at the drag strip. :-) Thanks for having me again. P.S. If you are local to me and on the list, please don't blab my plans around. I want to keep this under wraps a bit. Thanks. :-) Jay Hassinger 1995 200sx SE-R ...stock 1997 200sx SE-R Turbo (409whp, stock motor)...sold back when From Nicholas_Hadiaris@umit.maine.edu Sun Sep 21 02:17:20 2003 From: Nicholas_Hadiaris@umit.maine.edu (Nicholas Hadiaris) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 20:17:20 -0500 Subject: Hello, An Old Face Returns In-Reply-To: <003301c37fb2$8efcbc20$911b0944@delldesktop> References: <003301c37fb2$8efcbc20$911b0944@delldesktop> Message-ID: Hey where's your new dealership going to be located and what's it going to be called? You're going to be giving discounts to list members right?? Those are some big plans you have for that car, be sure to take lots of pictures and keep us updated on how its going. I always like to see an ambitious turbo buildup! -Nick '91 classic 207k miles From cburwell@comcast.net Sun Sep 21 01:24:37 2003 From: cburwell@comcast.net (Chris Burwell) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 19:24:37 -0500 Subject: Hello, An Old Face Returns In-Reply-To: <003301c37fb2$8efcbc20$911b0944@delldesktop> Message-ID: <000201c37fd6$b05427e0$0d02a8c0@chris> That sounds like a big project! Welcome back, and keep us posted on your progress! From geo3@earthlink.net Sun Sep 21 06:42:21 2003 From: geo3@earthlink.net (George Roffe) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 00:42:21 -0500 Subject: Helmets In-Reply-To: References: <5.2.0.9.0.20030919215421.027fada0@mail.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030921004120.03be1220@mail.earthlink.net> Josh Foster wrote: >Thanks for the input, George. I was looking at the G-Force, and I was >surprised by the price; so it is good to know that they are good for the >money. Actually, they are better than "for the money" if you get my meaning. Despite being less expensive than Bell, I think the overall quality is at least as good if not better. George Roffe Houston, TX http://www.nissport.com From peter@easytree.net Sun Sep 21 22:10:43 2003 From: peter@easytree.net (Peter Serwe) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 16:10:43 -0500 Subject: B12 5-speed into a b13? Message-ID: <3F6E13FA.8C709A55@easytree.net> Does anyone know if a b12's 5-speed will bolt up to a b13's GA16DE? I have a buddy with 4-speed '91 E who's looking to upgrade and just bought a rolled b12 hatch with a 5-speed.. Thanks all. -- Peter Serwe Cheaper, Faster, Better, pick any two. finger peter@easytree.net for public pgp key From 93SER@attbi.com Sun Sep 21 23:34:24 2003 From: 93SER@attbi.com (Michael Jez) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 17:34:24 -0500 Subject: 4 sale few items Message-ID: <003e01c38090$7d86fb70$2adefea9@VALUEDCB7D4C82> I have alot of engine only parts laying around for SE-Rs, I have a few listed on Ebay that I'm trying to get rid off. I have no more needs for these parts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2433867069&ssPa geName=ADME:B:LC:MT:1 one of them http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2433868704&ssPa geName=ADME:B:LC:MT:1 2nd item. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2433869617&ssPa geName=ADME:B:LC:MT:1 last one. I have intake manifolds, oil pans, brackets, oil and coolant passages, turbo manifold with downpipe for a T3/T4 turbo- tubular. No longer own any Sentras so I wanna ditch all this at fraction of the cost I paid for it- most of the items are brand new from Nissan. Mike Jez 01 Max 5spd- every bolt on, coming soon forced induction- new CF hood installed, 13s NA. From j_foster@charter.net Sun Sep 21 04:25:25 2003 From: j_foster@charter.net (Josh Foster) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 22:25:25 -0500 Subject: Helmets In-Reply-To: <5.2.0.9.0.20030919215421.027fada0@mail.earthlink.net> Message-ID: George Roffe said: "Personally, I'd suggest buying a SA G-Force helmet. You can get one for about the price of a M Bell or Simpson and if you ever need the SA rating, you have it. " Thanks for the input, George. I was looking at the G-Force, and I was surprised by the price; so it is good to know that they are good for the money. I think I will just look for a SA incase I ever need one, I will already have it. I know the rule is buy a new one every 5 years, but with my use I might try to stretch it a little further - or maybe stretch the budget and use it more often. :) Thanks, Josh Josh Foster '92 SE-R http://webpages.charter.net/j_foster/Index.htm